French designer Roland Mouret presents Fashion Week ode to free, sensual women

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Models on the runway on the first day of the London Fashion Week.PHOTO: FACEBOOK/LONDON FASHION WEEK

LONDON (AFP) – French designer Roland Mouret launched his latest collection in London on Sunday, aligning with the #MeToo movement in a parade celebrating femininity, independence and sensuality.

In the subterranean concrete lobby of the National Theatre, the London-based designer hosted buyers, journalists, bloggers, fashionistas and other Fashion Week VIPs to highlight his 2018 autumn-winter collection.

Models paraded between the ranks of guests following a labyrinthine route set to retro music.

Velvet corduroy dresses were worn with transparent tops; soft ties appeared nonchalantly tied around the neck; and lace socks were paired with sandals.

Mouret was eager to play with contrasts to explore concepts of femininity – and his abiding mantra “…we all dress to undress”.

In red and black, in pale pink or midnight blue, his models subtly revealed garters and low-cut necklines.

“Roland Mouret proves that there is practicality in femininity, and femininity is a woman’s greatest power,” read the collection’s accompanying notes.

Mouret told AFP he deliberately chose fabrics reminiscent of the 1970s – “still the highlight of women’s liberation” – for his latest designs as he incorporated the current climate into the collection.

Spanish fashion house Delpozo, a defector from New York Fashion Week, also highlighted its latest offerings on Sunday with a slow and romantic show in the cosy setting of London’s Royal Institute of British Architects.

The location was an homage of sorts to creative director Josep Font’s past life as an architect.

For his 2018 autumn-winter collection, the Catalan drew inspiration from French cubist artist Ines Longevial.

Font found the works “radiate a harmonious femininity in shape and colour” and sought to incorporate their “simple lines and curvy silhouettes with luminous hues” into his designs.

Pink provides the basis for the collection, while ivory, camel, canary yellow, chalk blue and navy blue feature too.

Shorts are cut wide, skirts long, and the coats hang down to mid-thigh.

Shirts are studded with polka dots, ankle boots are sequined and dresses feature floral patterns.

Meanwhile the designer has styled two types of belts: an “iconic bow silhouette” and another more “organic and floral” offering inspired by lily pads.

“Artisanship of leather at its most delicate expression,” proclaims the collection’s literature.